Bhujia sev is the fine gram flour noodle that Haldiram built an empire on, and that Bikaner built a reputation on long before that.

It is not really a snack, it is an ingredient.

Eat it by the handful with tea, certainly. But it also goes on top of chaat, over poha, through bhel, and scattered on dal and rice by anyone who grew up doing it. The crunch is the job.

Available at Curry Corner, North Melbourne.