Dried white peas are cheap, filling and considerably more useful than their reputation suggests. They cook down soft and savoury and take spice extremely well.

They are the base of ragda, the thick pea gravy poured over potato patties on half the street food carts in Mumbai.

Soak overnight and pressure cook with turmeric. Use them for ragda pattice, matar chaat, or a simple usal with coconut. They also make a decent soup on a cold night with nothing more than onion and pepper.

In the pantry aisle at Curry Corner, North Melbourne.