Ginger pickle, allam pachadi, is sharp and warming in a way that is quite different from chilli heat. Fresh ginger, tamarind, jaggery and spice, cooked down into something dark and thick.

Sweet, sour and pungent all at once.

In Andhra it is served with pesarattu, the moong dal dosa, and the two are usually spoken about together. It also works with idli, with plain rice, or as a relish alongside grilled meat.

In the pickles aisle at Curry Corner, North Melbourne.