Warm, syrup-soaked and impossible to eat just one of, gulab jamun is the dessert that ends most Indian celebrations. Soft milk-solid dumplings, fried until deep golden, then left to drink up a cardamom syrup until they are heavy with it.

Haldiram’s come ready in the tin. Open, warm gently, serve.

Best slightly warm rather than hot, on their own or with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, which is not remotely traditional and is very good. Two per person is usually the polite amount and rarely what happens.

On the shelf at Curry Corner in North Melbourne.