Bolst’s hot curry paste is the one with a reputation. It has been quietly frightening people in Australia and Britain for decades and it has not softened to suit anyone.

Use less than you think. Genuinely.

Fry a small spoonful with onion, add meat or vegetables, then tomato, coconut milk or yoghurt to give the heat somewhere to sit. Serve with rice, raita and something cooling. It is excellent, but it is not gentle.

Available at Curry Corner in North Melbourne.