Kabuli chana are the large pale chickpeas, and chole is what they were made for. Cooked until tender, then simmered in a dark, tangy masala heavy with anardana or amchur.

Size matters here. The bigger grain stays creamy inside while the outside takes on colour from the gravy.

Soak overnight, pressure cook with a tea bag if you want the traditional dark colour, and serve with bhatura or rice. They also make hummus, if you are going in an entirely different direction.

Stocked at Curry Corner in North Melbourne.