Avakaya is the pickle Andhra Pradesh is known for, and it is not a beginner’s jar. Raw mango, ground mustard, red chilli and a great deal of gingelly oil, made in season and eaten all year.

This is properly hot. The mustard gives it a sharpness on top of the chilli that catches people out.

The traditional way is a spoonful mashed into hot rice with a little ghee and nothing else on the plate. It is also eaten with curd rice, which is the sensible option.

In the pickles aisle at Curry Corner, North Melbourne.