Pani puri lives or dies on the water. The puris are crisp shells and the filling is simple, but the spiced water is the whole dish.

This masala is that water in powder form. Mint, cumin, black salt and amchur.

Mix it with cold water, taste, and adjust until it makes you wince slightly. Fill the puris with potato and chickpea, dunk, and eat immediately over a bowl, because there is no dignified way to do this.

Available at Curry Corner in North Melbourne.