Peanuts do more work in Indian cooking than most people outside it realise. They are in poha, in chivda, in chutneys, in South Indian vegetable dishes and all through Maharashtrian food.

Roast them yourself. Ten minutes in a dry pan and they are transformed.

Use them whole in tempering, crushed over chaat, ground into chutney with chilli and tamarind, or simply salted and eaten with a drink. Keep them airtight, because they go stale faster than they look like they will.

In the pantry aisle at Curry Corner, North Melbourne.