Sindhi biryani is the most decorated of the family. Potato, dried plum, plenty of yoghurt, lots of green chilli, and a colour that comes from both spice and saffron.

Sour, hot and rich all at the same time.

It is a wedding dish and a Sunday dish, and it takes longer than a weeknight allows. Marinate, cook down, layer with rice, potato and plums, and steam sealed until the whole pot smells like an event.

On the spice shelf at Curry Corner, North Melbourne.