Bombay biryani is the one with potato in it, and Mumbai will defend that potato to the end. Slightly sweet, slightly sour, with dried plums often going in as well.

The fruit is not a mistake. It cuts the richness and it belongs there.

Marinate your meat, cook it down, then layer with parboiled rice, fried onion and par-cooked potato. Steam sealed. Serve with raita and expect an argument about the potato.

On the spice shelf at Curry Corner, North Melbourne.