Tomato pickle is the underrated one. Cooked tomato with chilli, tamarind and mustard, thicker and more jam-like than the oil-cured pickles beside it.

It is closer to a relish than a pickle, which makes it far more versatile than the name suggests.

Eat it with rice, with dosa and idli, in a sandwich, or stirred through plain pasta if nobody is watching. It is one of the few pickles you can be slightly generous with.

Available at Curry Corner in North Melbourne.