If an Indian household cooks one dal, it is usually this one. Toor dal, also called arhar or split pigeon peas, is the base of sambar, of everyday dal, and of more weeknight dinners across India than any other pulse.

It cooks down soft and holds flavour well, which is why it takes a tadka so beautifully.

Rinse, boil or pressure cook until it collapses, then finish with a tempering of ghee, cumin, mustard seed, dried chilli and garlic poured over the top. Serve with rice and a pickle and that is dinner.

Available at Curry Corner in North Melbourne.