Safed vatana, dried white peas, are what ragda is made of. Cooked down soft into a thick, savoury gravy, they become the base of ragda pattice and a good number of other Mumbai street dishes.

They hold together better than chickpeas while still going creamy.

Soak overnight, pressure cook with turmeric until soft, then spice generously. Serve as ragda with potato patties, tamarind chutney and onion, or make a simple usal with coconut and curry leaf.

Available at Curry Corner, North Melbourne.