The dark red kidney bean is firmer than its lighter cousin and holds its shape through a long simmer, which is why plenty of cooks insist on it for rajma.

Colour aside, the difference is texture. These stay intact where lighter beans soften.

Soak overnight, boil hard for ten minutes, then simmer in a spiced onion and tomato gravy until the sauce clings. Serve over plain rice with sliced onion and lemon.

Find it with the pulses at Curry Corner in North Melbourne.