Pigeon peas are toor dal before it is split and polished, and they are one of the most-eaten pulses on earth. Firm, nutty, and the backbone of dal across most of India.

Whole pigeon peas take longer than split but keep more texture, which suits dishes where you want the pulse to stay visible.

Soak overnight, then pressure cook until tender. Use them in dal, in sambar, in a South Indian kootu with vegetables, or in a thick soupy stew with a hard tempering of mustard seed and curry leaf.

In the pantry aisle at Curry Corner, North Melbourne.