Memoni biryani is the hot one. The Memon community’s version dispenses with tomato and colour and goes hard on chilli and yoghurt instead.

This is not the biryani to cook for people who are unsure about spice.

Marinate mutton or beef heavily, cook it down until the oil separates, then layer and steam with basmati. Serve with plain yoghurt on the side and mean it. One of the most distinctive biryanis on the shelf.

Available at Curry Corner in North Melbourne.