Malaysian biryani is its own tradition, carried there by Indian Muslim traders and shaped by local ingredients over generations. Sweeter and more fragrant than the Karachi style.

Lemongrass and pandan territory rather than the heavy chilli of a Sindhi biryani.

Marinate chicken with the masala and yoghurt, cook down, layer with basmati and steam. Serve with cucumber and onion salad. Worth trying if you think you already know what biryani tastes like.

Available at Curry Corner in North Melbourne.