Korma is the mild, rich end of the curry range, and it is a genuinely old dish rather than a concession to nervous eaters. Yoghurt, cream, ground nuts and gentle aromatics.

Mild does not mean plain. A good korma is layered, just not hot.

Cook onion down properly, add the masala, then yoghurt slowly so it does not split, then your meat. Finish with cream or ground almond. Serve with naan. The dish to cook when the table includes children.

Available at Curry Corner in North Melbourne.