Split white urad, hulled and pale, is the workhorse of South Indian cooking. It is what goes into idli and dosa batter, and what makes vada possible.

It grinds to a batter that holds air, which is the property nothing else quite replicates.

Soak, grind with idly rice for idli and dosa, or grind alone for medu vada. In small amounts it also goes into tempering, where a spoonful fried in oil turns golden and adds a nutty crunch to the finished dish.

On the shelf at Curry Corner in North Melbourne.