Chana dal is split desi chickpea, hulled and polished to a pale gold. It looks like yellow split peas and cooks nothing like them, staying firmer and holding its shape.

It is the most versatile dal on the shelf.

Make it into dal with a garlic tempering, use it in South Indian sambar and kootu, add a spoonful to tempering for crunch, or take it sweet with chana dal payasam and puran poli. Soak it first, it repays the effort.

Available at Curry Corner, North Melbourne.