Matta rice is Kerala’s rice, and it looks nothing like basmati. Short, plump, reddish-brown grains with the bran left on, sold parboiled and carrying an earthy, slightly nutty flavour that stands up to strong food.

It is chewier and more filling than white rice, which is exactly why Keralan households eat it every day.

Cook it longer than you would basmati, in plenty of water. Serve it with fish curry, avial, sambar, or simply with a coconut chutney. Once you are used to it, plain white rice starts to feel like it is missing something.

Available at Curry Corner in North Melbourne.