Seeni sambol is Sri Lanka’s answer to caramelised onion, and it is not really like anything Indian. Onions cooked down slowly with chilli, tamarind and sugar until dark, sticky and sweet-sour with a low, warm heat underneath.

Sri Lankans eat it with everything. Rice and curry, string hoppers, pittu, milk rice, or simply between two slices of bread.

Derana’s version is ready to use. A spoonful transforms a plain plate of rice, and it is one of the great sandwich fillings once you know about it.

Part of the Sri Lankan range at Curry Corner, North Melbourne.