Besan is ground chickpea, and it is the most useful flour in an Indian kitchen after atta. Nutty, pale gold, and completely different in behaviour from wheat.

No besan, no pakoras. That is the short version.

It makes the batter for bhaji and pakora, it binds kebabs and cutlets, it becomes besan ladoo and mysore pak on the sweet side, and it makes chilla, a savoury pancake that is about the fastest breakfast going. Naturally gluten free as well.

Find it with the flours at Curry Corner in North Melbourne.